Primrose Corner

Look I won a giveaway ..

Pretty, don’t you think. I won it from Christine Sews blog. She has just taken that brave step into selling her bag creations on her own website. Go take a look.

The bag is made out of gorgeous upholstery weight fabrics which compliment each other perfectly. It’s lined with with a pretty, flowery cotton and has a magnetic snap closure. The handles are faux leather. I always admire that about Christines creations her way of mixing and matching fabric. It’s beautifully put together. Quite lovely.

So, this Saturday after dropping children off at various club type meetings I can retreat to our favourite coffee shop and watch the world go by for a few peaceful, tranquil uninterrupted minutes and be the mysterious woman in the corner with a very distinctive bag.

So, thank you very much Christine.

It’s strange sometimes when you look at fabric and it almost tells you what it wants to be when it’s not longer flat wrapped around a carboard bolt.

That’s the kind of relationship I have with this
Barefoot Roses

It’s a beautiful old fashioned, blousy rose print and to me it always says ‘Grandma’ - my grandma. She used to love this kind of fabric print.

So, with a little bit ot sewing time I’ve made this -

it’s a simple little drawstring pouch. I used both the rosy and the polka dot fabrics, and pieced them together with the a soft pink fabric inbetween the main pieces, highlighting the pinks in the roses.

It’s a bit ot a sewing departure for me. If I make pouches, it is usually the zipped kind. But this is pretty, girly and pink….

It’s simply quilted with a cross-hatch design in a pale pink thread, which I thought would add to the old fashioned/vintage appeal of the fabric and the pink was again to draw attention to the roses.

I used the polka dot fabric as the lining and a narrow burgundy, velvet ribbon for the drawstrings. (Oops! I’ve hidden them a bit with the beads - I think I got a bit carried away.) Again, I thought the velvet has an old fashioned, opulent feel.

There - that’s without the beads

The beads? I raided them from my daughters dressing-up jewellery stash just for the photo. I’m trying to improve my photo’s and this is my attempt at creating a mood! (I need to sneak them back before she gets home from school! or I’ll know what mood means!). They probably were my grandmothers beads …. unintended realism?

What do you think to the bottom?

It’s a pleated, folded arrangement. Quite nice ? I’m thrilled that it turned out as well as it has.

Enjoy your weekend.

This has been a week with poorly people. Colds again! Haven’t we done this already? It’s only October. Didn’t we have our colds quota in September. All that mopping of the fevered brow… Do I need to allot an amount in the family budget for cold remedies, tissues and all that paraphenalia? Time to get out the juicer again I think. There’s a wonderful juice made from tomatoes, chillies and red peppers (plus a dash of worcestershire sauce - if you like it) that really blows the socks of a cold. It’s the chillies you know, opens up the ‘tubes’.

Consequently, not a lot of sewing has been done and of what I have managed to do I can only show you this, because I’m taking part in a ‘Christmas Decorations swap’ and I don’t want to upset Father Christmas by giving the game away. Do you like the button in the side bar? The swap’s been organised by Indigo Blue. I’ve never been involved in a swap before - it’s nerve wrackingly exciting….

Anyway, this is the frilly buttonony thing….

I do like it - it’s all sparkly!

Yes, you’re right! It’s another little pouch and another experiment. It’s diminutive. It’s 20cm (8 inches wide) and stands a 12.5 cm (approximately 5 inches) tall (or short if you prefer). It has no depth. It is a flat pouch.

It’s made from a purple moda marbels (why do I always struggle to spell that?) marbles fabric, which I pleated into randomly spaced 1/4inch tucks. I know they were 1/4 inch wide because I used my 1/4 foot on the sewing machine. Once the tucks were finished I sewed straight lines with a variegated quilting thread in between the tucks. All pink, purples and greens. Lovely. To complete the fabric I added a mixture of different sized shell buttons in green and turquoise blue , so it’s all lovely and shiny. It’s a very tactile piece. I used wadding behind the fabric which gives it a nice squishy feel, apart from the hardness of the buttons of course, and it has a simple pink fabric lining. I decided it was just too tiny to add any kind of pocket-ty arrangement.

If you haven’t spotted the similarity already, it’s based on a design in ‘Handmade Embroidered Purses’ by Jenny Rolfe.

Can you see the picture on the top right? She used sequins rather than buttons and I might just make another with sequins. You’d get a slightly more delicate effect I think. In fact I’m wondering what this pleating and sequin/button effect might look like in my favourite wristlet pattern. Umm!

I like her books. I’ve said before that I need to practice my free motion sewing for the course I’m doing and these designs give me lots of ideas for practice. The ‘I can’t wait to get started’ kind of practice, not the ‘oh no! Not more…..’ kind of practice… walks away wih heavy feet…. I can’t cope if things get too repetitive. I get all stressy - as my darling son would say. The books also give you loads of ideas for using the practice bits too. So, that folk like me don’t get buried in the left over deitritus of one more outing with the darning foot and the sewing machine.

Which incidentally I’d better get back to whilst things are quiet!

As you probably already know magnetic snaps come in different sizes and are available in different metal finishes. They are not recommended for use on anything which will come into contact with computers, laptops or audio equipment because of the possibility of upsetting or even scrambling/destroying hard disks and other delicate computer electronics. On non-techy items though they provide a secure, unobstrusive closure which are relatively straightforward to apply and add a professional finish to bags and purses, particularly when combined with other matching metal hardware.

Not an easy photo - they kept ’snapping’ together!

A magnetic snap set comprises four parts; one half of the snap is magnetic, the other part of the snap is metal and is ‘attracted’ to the other. They click together to make a closure.

There are also two backing discs or ‘ washers’, with holes in which are fixed on the other side of the fabric to the snap parts. They fit over the snap prongs which are pushed through holes in the fabric. The backing discs or ‘washers’ are then placed over the prongs which are folded back to neatly and securely attach the magnetic snap.

I mentioned a while ago in a previous post that I apply magnetic snaps to my bags in a slightly different way to many. so, I thought I’d show you how I add magnetic snaps to my bags, books covers and anywhere else where they seem useful.

Here, I’m adding a magnetic snap to the lining of a small tote bag.

Requirements

• 14mm magnetic snap set (these instructions apply to any size of snap) Link
• 2, 4 cm (approximately 1 1/2 inches) squares of interlining or something to protect the fabric of the lining from the movement of the metal magnetic snap.
• 2, 5cm (approximately 2 inches) squares of interlining or fleece
• removable fabric marker - I used tailors chalk
• a few pins
• seam ripper - or a way of making two small holes in the fabric
• tape measure

Step 1 - Mark the position of the snap on both lining pieces. Measure and mark the centre point on the lining piece with the marker.
I want this snap to be positioned about 2.5 cm (1 inch) below the top edge when the bag is completed. So using the centre mark as a guide, measure down approximately 3.5 cm (approximately 1 1/2 inches) from the top edge and make another mark.
Step 2 - Mark position of the snap Using the washer (the back of the magnetic snap), as a template, lay it down on the fabric and mark where you need to make ‘tiny’ little holes to be able to insert the magnetic snap prongs easily through the fabric. Use these marks as a guide to where you need to make tiny incisions with your seam ripper. Go carefully now! It’s just a little snap.	Can you see where I’ve marked the centre of the lining and then marked how far down I want the snap positioned? I use the ‘washer’ as a template to mark where the incisions need to be.
Step 3 - Marking the interlining backing Take one of the 4 cm (approximately 1 1/2 inch) squares and using the washer (back of the magnetic snap) as a template mark the position of the side slots using your fabric marker. Make small incisions in this with your seam ripper.	Can you see the marks through the slots showing where to make the slits.
Push the prongs of the magnetic snap through the incisions in the fabric to the wrong side. Place the backing fabric/interlining over the prongs.
Push the washer onto the prongs and … this is where I differ slightly from others.
Some people like to fold the prongs outwards which keeps the snap neatly and securely in position. I have found that where the prongs stick out proud of the area occupied by the snap the fabric wears. I’ve sadly lost a few favourite bags this way so now I fold the prongs inwards. You may need to use a pair of pliers for this. It can be hard on the fingers otherwise. It is of course your decision how you fold the prongs. Inwards or outwards?	Are you an ‘inwards’ or ‘outwards’ magnetic snap kinda person?
Take one of the 5 cm (approximately 2 inch) squares of fleece or interlining and place it over the back of the snap.	Disappeared?
Using a couple of pins, pin the fleece or interlining in position over the back of the snap from the right side of the fabric and take it to your sewing machine. The photograph probably makes this clearer. In order to hold the fabric, the interliningg and the snap securely together I machine sew around the magnetic snap. This is an optional step, you can just hand sew the fleece backing into position behind the magnetic snap to the interlining which will serve the purpose of protecting your bag from wear and tear from the metal snap parts. I like to sew around the magnetic snap because I think it adds a ‘finished’ look to the bag lining.
Sewing around the magnetic snap is not difficult if you take a little time. Attach your zipper foot to your machine and have the needle positioned so that it is sewing on the side furthest away from the snap. It may be clearer in the photograph. Sew two or three stitches then lower your needle, raise your zipper foot and pivot. It doesn’t take long to do and I quite like the look of it. You can of course sew a square around the snap but I find that more difficult to do well than sewing around in a circle.	Click on the photograph for a closer look.
This is what it looks like when you’ve sewn the circle.
And on the back - ends tied off and snipped off …… It’s now all wrapped up in a fleece blanket.	All wrapped up in a blanketty bed! Keep your prongs off my bags!

Thinking about how many different ways everyone seems to interline their bags I’m wondering how many different ways we apply magnetic snaps? Go on, be brave, how do you add your snaps?

How you interline your bag is often a case of personal taste and judgement. As you gain experience and develop personal preferences then obviously you make up your own mind. Nothing substitutes for the ‘personal’. That’s the beauty of ‘handmade’. A beautifully ‘crafted’ bag or beautifully ‘crafted’ anything is the result of that happy combination of experience and heartfelt creativity.

You do use it don’t you? It can turn the lightest of fabrics into the firmest of boxy little clutches with just a little know-how. This post isn’t intended as a how-to, however, it is intended as an “For Information” type of post.

Obviously, when Crafters such as you and I use patterns, pattern designers want the ‘Material Requirements’ on their pattern sleeves to be helpful, to ensure that we get the best results and most rewarding experience from making one of their designs. So. following the demise of Timtex, Amy Butler has reviewed her sewing patterns and has recomended the use of pellon products; Peltex and fusible Peltex.

Her recommendations vary with the particular sewing patern so if you’ve bought or are thinking about buying these patterns; Kimberly Bag, Sophia Carry-all, Betty Shopper , Weekender Travel Bag, Chelsea Bags, Madison Bags, or In Town Bags , then take a look at this. ‘Pattern Updates’

So, now you know. Remember though that the decision about which interlining to use is yours. Remember too that combining interlinings such as a fusible fleece with medium or heavy sew-in can give some very nice results. I quite often do this, because I like the tactile, squashiness that the fleece imparts to a bag but I also like the structure which the sew-in gives.

What’s your favourite way of interlining your bags?

I’m trying to get to grips with free motion quilting. You know, feed dogs down, attach the darning foot etc etc and off you jolly well go…. meandering, drawing, painting with thread across fabric. No particular rules - just freedom! Yay!

Don’t believe them! it’s not that easy, you have to practice, or in my case practice, practice and then practice some more. It’s trying to get nice even stitching whilst manoevering your fabric… and remembering to meander, that’s the challenge. My poor little brain hurts.

My real difficulty was remembering to breathe. That sounds silly doesn’t it but I tensed my muscles up so much that every now and then I’d suddenly get a desperate urge to just BREATHE, which of course interrupted the flow of fabric, thread and machine (Sigh!). That’s my problem of course, I need to relax a little. After three practice pieces my poor muscles felt as if I’d been to the gym!

Relax that’s the key. I’m fresh out of lavender scented candles but that probably wouldn’t have worked anyway because you have to breathe to inhale the soothing aroma…… Music then. so a few precious sewing minutes later I had music to provide a calming, soothing, backdrop to my intensive, physically grueling, learning journey. So, to the sound of Crowded House I tried a few more pieces with a double needle just for a bit of added spice and tried some more.
…must…..breathe….

Free-motion stitching with a double needle creates a kind of ribbon effect, very pretty in skilled hands. The wadding sort of ‘puffs’ up in between giving a subtle impression of cording. I used a green thread in one side of the needle and a variegated quilting thread in the other.

Anyway, with the two ‘best’ pieces I created this pouch or make-up bag. It’s got a curved zipped top. I’ve been seeing quite a lot of pouches with nicely rounded tops lately. They’re quite sweet and feminine looking aren’t they? It’s probably a bit bigger than most, at 22cm (9 inches) across the top and stands 15 cm (6 inches) tall. It’s about 5 cm deep (2 inches). A nice useful size.

Then I sewed on a few buttons, ‘cos buttons are for using aren’t they? They’re not just for squirrelling away in your secret button stash. Alright, I used quite a lof of buttons - I got a bit carried away.

Which side do you prefer?

I ‘buttoned’ both sides and because the fabric wasn’t worked as one piece the sewing is slightly different between them so I used buttons of differing sizes, styles and colour just to add to the really ‘handcrafted’ look. (Obviously, this was all completely intentional. No, really!) I like the overall effect though. Quite light hearted and fun!

Are you trying to learn something new? and what do you use your buttons for?

I’m off to buy more buttons and then I need to get some more relaxed (deep breath), practicing done, with a single needle this time. Oh! and did I mention that I need to buy more buttons….. it’s not an obsession or anything …… not really……

To answer the questions I’ve had about Timtex, from this talented lady of Indygo Blue and others I’ve had via e-mails I thought I’d post this. It may help but then again……..

Timtex has the texture of a squashy type of crispbread that’s been exposed to moisture for too long and when you sew it, it squeaks like not quite cooked green beans. (Yuk - I hate that sensation! It rubs on your teeth and ….. yuckky!). The wonder of Timtex has always been it’s versatility. It lends itself to being steamed into shape hence it’s loved by folk who make fabric bowls, hats ( Think baseball type hats) and by folk who make bags. Particularly loved by folk who make bags. I think the characteristic that always made it so lovely is that it’s firm but not hard. It takes stitching and quite dense embroidery beautifully without cracking or snapping. Lovely stuff.

I shouldn’t rant and ramble on……. but I do have some bad news and some a little better. Firstly, in case you haven’t heard, is that they are no longer making Timtex. Why? Who knows? It’s bad news for a lot of people who craft because of course you get to know the materials you work with and understand how they perform best etc and know that your lovingly crafted items are going to perform as they should.

The sad demise of Timtex

It’s an issue for a great many pattern designers too. Particularly those who believe strongly and with a passion in the products they produce, like Amy Butler. Her bag patterns recommend using Timtex and here in the UK it has been more difficult for us to source. But it has been here, lurking away in craft type stores. Supplies of Timtex around the world are dwindling …. (sorry! does that sound like an announcement of impending doom and disaster?), but just to cheer you up, there are a few metres left in my own shop. Link

On really a GOOD note, Amy Butler is in the process of writing an article about interfacings or interlinings (whichever term you prefer), as she has been ’searching’ for a suitable substitute or substitutes for Timtex to recommend on her patterns. Brilliant for those of us who love making her bags! (Has anyone ever told you how lovely she and the folk that work with her are?) An e-mail this week promised it shortly, so when I hear any more I’ll post a link or at least share what I find out.

The children are back at school and the house is so, so empty. They’re getting used to new timetables, meeting new people, trying new things and finding their way to new places and I’m having to get used to watching the clock again.

Yesterday was all bustle and excitement, seeing friends they haven’t seen since the end of last term, new shoes, new uniforms, new routines. Today was different. My daughter was full of tears, she’s moved to a larger (much larger) secondary school and it’s all a bit daunting, “What if I get lost?”, “What if I’m late because I can’t find my classroom?”. I remember having those same fears. Has every parent through time stood there and said to their child exactly the same as their parent said to them? “Don’t worry about it. All the children in your form are just as confused as you about where places are. The teachers don’t expect you to know where everywhere is.” Hopefully she’ll feel better when I see her later.

The kitchen is traumatised. They rushed in yesterday after school and raided the cupboards and the fruit bowl (! Don’t panic. That really doesn’t happen often. My children really don’t think that 5-a day (fruit and veg) applies to them.). A plague of locusts would have been proud of them.

So, all these new beginnings mean that I won’t be seeing all the Mum’s in the playground or anyone during the day, unless I do something about it. So, besides meeting up for coffee with folk I thought I might go along to a quilting group in the next town. Coffee? or … …a little milkshake?

The group quite often exhibits in the local church so I’ve seen the kind of things they do together. Quilts, obviously but more contemporary styles as well as the traditional. They make all kinds of wall hangings, bags, fabric boxes. I think it’s worth going along once or twice at least, to see if I like it.

In amongst all this turmoil though there’s been a little sewing, and not just endless, countless name tags! (I did refuse to sew tags into the socks! I’m such a rebel!)

Another simply styled tote this time in Amy Butler’s Graniflora fabric . I like the way this one turned out. The flower arches it’s way up the bag. Gorgeous colours, maroon, burgundy reds and pinks with a creamy background.

It has a magnetic snap closure and a divided pocket inside.

It’s 12 inches wide, 1 1/2 inches deep, 14 inches tall and has a 28 inches fabric handle (finished length). I’ve used some ‘o’ rings to attach the handles to the bag and the magnetic snap is the same nickel colour. I like the bag hardware to match.

This little chap is a boxy style pouch. He’s definately an experiment. I’ve not made pouches this way before. I usually box the corners in bags by aligning the side seams with the bottom seam and sewing across. Probably the same way that most people do it. This is different. With this you sew across the bottom of the bag and then pleat and fold the sides. What you end up with is this kind of effect. It’s sort of folded and tucked in. Origami with bags! I’m convinced that there’s scope for a little embellishment on those ends I just haven’t quite worked out what that might be yet! I love the tabs across the zip ends. Ribbon would be a nice touch too! It gives it a nice finish, just like little ears!

Nice tidy bottom! The fabric is called Chutes and Ladders

If anyone wants more of an explanation, I’m willing to write (and illustrate it ) in a little more detail. Just drop me a comment. What do you think though?

It’s destined to hold some of the bits and pieces, threads, sewing scissors that kind of thing for me to take to the quilting group. Well, I have to look the part don’t I?

The applique was another experiment. I keep reading about quite complex pieces of applique where you use fusible interfacing as a way of turning the seam allowance of your ’shape’ under, the end result being a fusible applique motif which looks as if its been ‘needle turned’. Start with something a little more simple I say! Hence the heart motif!

I placed some lightweight fusible interfacing onto the fabric with its right side facing the non-fusible side of the interfacing. Does that make sense? Then I pinned a paper template to both of them and machine sewed around the outside of the paper template. I removed the template and made an incision into the interlining and poked turned the fabric through the ‘hole’. I then had a fusible patch, with the fabric rightside out and the fusible side of the interlining facing out. I had to clip the edges of the heart to get everything to lie nicely but it worked. It fused beautifully to the bag but you do get an edge around the motif which is not ’stuck’ down because that’s where the fabric is. So, you’d definately need to sew or do something creative with the edges. I machined sewed around the outside of the patch using a kind of blanket stitch effect. Not too difficult considering I rarely use ‘fancy’ stitches. I’m more a ‘running’ stitch kind of girl. I found it quite a fiddly process though - can’t say I’d rush to applique this way again.

Now, if only I’d placed the heart motifs (There’s one on both sides.) a little higher up the bag. Next time I’ll have a better idea about how this design works……… how is it that I only ever seem to understand by doing! It’s so frustrating…. Am I alone in that?

Ummm! I think I might call it Henry!

I hate starting with an apology but the photo’s seem a little dark (It’s the torrential rain, you know.) even with all my manipultions in Lightroom. (I don’t know much beyond the very basics I’m afraid.) Anyway, on this dark and dreary day, here is a simple tote bag made fron Amy Butler’s home decor weight, Nigella fabric and a plain (I think you’re supposed to call them solids.) black fabric with a subtle basketweave pattern.

Vital statistics

It’s 12 inches wide, 1 1/2 inches wide, 14 inches tall and a 28 inch fabric handle.

It has a fabric handle (28 inches finished length), Nigella fabric on one side and the plain fabric on the other. It’s stitched along it’s length four times for added strength. It’s also interlined with a medium weight interlining which was a little bit of overkill given the heavier weight of the nigella fabric. I think I’d use a lighter interlining next time, if I felt it needed any at all.

The handle is looped through a nickel o-ring and sewn down in rectangle to try and keep everything tidy and nice.

The bag is lined with a solid dark burgundy fabric with a divided slip pocket in the same fabric. The pocket is trimmed with the main Nigella fabric. It has a magnetic snap to add a little security and help keep everything tucked safely inside.

I made and then added some black piping to the top edge of the bag, I’m not sure that I’d do this again because I don’t think it’s adds anything much. Perhaps in a different colour it would have made more of an impact?

I’ve started adding a extra piece of interlining over the back of magnetic snaps I add to my bags. To explain; in a bag like this I add the magnetic snap to the lining. The lining will also have an interlining, so that’s one piece of fabric ( the lining) plus the interlining. Through this I add the magnetic snap, then insert a further square of interlining over the prongs at the back and add the ‘washer’ part of the snap and fold the prongs inwards . (I know a lot of people like to fold the prongs outwards.) Over this, I sew a further square piece of interlining which covers the whole magnetic snap and protects the exterior fabric (the outside of your bag), which I also interline, from any wear and tear caused by the movement of the snap against the bag fabric. It’s a lot more complicted to explain than to do.

Why do I do this? Well…. it’s because I lost a much loved bag to constant use - the magnetic snap constantly pulling and rubbing against the fabric began to wear it away when the rest of the bag was fine. Sad……. so very sad.

Any tips, hints, suggestions for taking photo’s of bags (better than this anyway!) ?

Whilst sorting out clothes that no longer fit, have disintegrated and otherwise just need to go (and make room in bulging cupboards for stuff we do need). I was surprised how much denim there was in the pile. Some were just grown out of, others were barely hanging together, no longer fit even for gardening in. What to do ?

Recycling I thought and then I remembered reading a book called ‘Patchwork Pizzazz’ by Lise Bergene. In it she describes making bags (quilts and cushions) using a ‘frayed edge technique’, which she’d come across on one of her trips. She uses quilt weight cottons as well as denim in her ‘frayed’ projects. I think others may call this approach ’scrappy’. Just think though denim and fraying ……that’s a marriage made in heaven isn’t it?

I can’t argue that this is a totally eco-friendly project unlike Dottycookie who is re-purposing sheets (What happened to the Barbie sheet?) or Linaloo who issued the re-purposing challenge but these little bags are quite good fun to make. There’s a lot of scope for quite varied styles from shabby chic to just plain shabby, as many ‘looks’ as there are for jeans I suppose.

Let me know what you think to the tutorial - I need your feedback. I’d like to get better at it you see.

To create a characterful denim bag

First identify the pair or pairs of jeans that you’re going to butcher cut up. (It’s definitely best to get permission from the jeans’ owner before you cut them up. People can be ‘funny’ about these things and I’d hate to cause any arguments.)
And yes, I know you’re all ‘growed up’ people but think about your precious fingers when chopping up denim. Those seams can be tough - take care!

Another friendly piece of advice is that you should only embark upon this project if you’re psycholoigcally strong enough to cope with all the little thready bits it creates that secretly migrate to the furthest reaches of your house. (Check the calendar - any important visitors about to pop in? No. O.K, maybe you can get on now.)

You will need;

Bag exterior
• 2 pieces of denim fabric 23cm (9 inches) by 30.5cm (12inches) for the front and back
• 2 pieces of denim 5 cm (2 inches) wide and 30.5cm (12 inches) deep for the bag sides
• 1 piece of denim for the bag bottom 5cm (2 inches) wide by 23cm (9 inches).

Lining

• 2 pieces of lining fabric 23 cm (9 inches) by 30.5cm (12 inches) for the front and the back
• 2 pieces of lining fabric for the sides 5cm (2 inches) by 30.5cm (12 inches)
• 1 piece of lining fabric for the bottom 5cm (2 inches) by 23cm (9 inches).

Batting/wadding/fusible fleece

• 2 pieces of Batting/wadding/fusible fleece 23cm (9 inches) by 30.5cm (12 inches) for the front and back
• 2 pieces of Batting/wadding/fusible fleece 5cm (2 inches) by 30.5cm (12 inches) for the sides
• 1 piece of Batting/wadding/fusible fleece 5cm (2 inches) by 23cm (9 inches) for the bottom.

Backing pieces - this is the fabric you want to show through your design (’through the holes’)

• 2 pieces of denim backing fabric 23cm (9 inches) by 30.5cm (12 inches).

Bag handle

To make a bag handle like mine you need;

• 1 piece or pieces of denim sewn together 5cm (2 inches) wide and 89cm (35 inches) long.

(Note:

if you piece/sew denim strips together to make the handle remember to have the seams on the rightside of the fabric facing outwards)

• 1 piece of wadding/batting/fusible fleece 2.5cm (1 inch) wide and 86cm (34 inches) long.
• 1 piece of fabric 5cm (2 inches) wide by 89cm (35 inches) long.

Other (mostly) necessary pieces of equipment

• scissors (for cutting fabric, thread, etc)
• Cutting board
• Rotary cutter (optional)
• Ruler (optional)
• pins
• matching thread
• non-permanent fabric marker
• embroidery threads (optional)
• buttons (optional)
• sewing needle
• sewing machine
• denim sewing machine needle
• tape measure
• A4 piece of paper (optional)

Seam allowance is 1.5 cm (approximately half an inch) throughout.
When selecting the pieces of denim to isolate and cut out try to avoid having any weak/well worn pieces or tough seamed pieces in the stressy areas of your bag. I’m thinking of where the sides get sewn into the bottom piece and where you want to attach the handles. Permanent grass, mud or oil stains may not look too attractive either. So pick and choose and have a little fun. The denim can be pieced together to make bigger pieces, just put any seams on the outside (so we can fray ‘em)

Step 1 Cut out the denim pieces. It’s a good idea to cut out the larger pieces first and then decide where to cut the smaller pieces from. Try cutting off a leg piece then cut up the inside leg seam and open the fabric out. Use your ruler and rotary cutter to cut out your pieces. If this proves difficult because of seams preventing the ruler laying flat and secure don’t risk slipping with your rotary cutter. Use a piece of paper (newspaper - any sort of paper) to mark out a pattern and use that to cut out your bag pieces with. You may wish to incorporate the jeans pockets into your bag. Take a minute to think about the look you’re aiming for and then cut.	You can see where I was ‘playing’ around with a design on the paper. Didn’t use it!
Cut out denim pieces for the handle Cut out as many pieces as will make a handle 5cm (2 inches) by 89 cm (35 inches) long. We’ll sew those together later.	These are the front, back, sides and handles pieces all cut out.
Cut out fabric to go behind the ‘holey’ design. This fabric goes behind the denim. It shows through the ‘holes’ you fray in the denim, supports the denim in those weakened areas and adds a splash of colour in the seams.You can choose to be subtle with co-ordinating blues or garish with hot, exotic reds and oranges. If you’re going to make ‘holes’ on the back and front of the bag then you need a piece to go behind the front and the back only. If you want to add a ‘fray design’ in the bag sides then you will need side pieces too. Use the measurements as for the lining sides. (This will make perfect sense soon. I promise)	My ’support’ pieces for the front and back on my bag. I used this fabric. Link
Cut out lining pieces Cut out all the lining pieces (front, back, sides and bottom) and the fabric backing for the handle. I chose a pretty little polka dot for my lining. Link
Cut out all the fusible fleece/wadding pieces Cut out all the wadding or fusible fleece pieces. I’ve tried both sorts when making these types of bags and both work perfectly well.	What a lot of pieces!
Mark out your design Now that you’ve cut out all your bag pieces it’s time to mark out you design onto the denim. I tried out some different ideas with patches and hearts and all kinds of shapes. I sewed a running stitch using embroidery thread along the seam (my daughters favourite jeans have this design on them) and drew a square and then played about with some arty lines.
I embroidered the lines I’d drawn onto the front and the back and sewed on some little pink buttons to resemble flowers.	Still thinking about patches!
Get happy with the scissors Now that you’ve decided on your design you need to cut into the shapes you’ve marked out. The things you need to think about are; Leave about 1cm seam (approximately 1/2 an inch) allowance inside your drawn shape. It doesn’t need to be perfectly accurate, it isn’t that kind of project. The fraying looks good when it’s a little random. If the shapes you’ve drawn are enclosed shapes like the square inside the square that I’ve drawn, cut out the middle square but I can only snip into the outer square. If I cut out both, the central square will fall out! I will be able to cut the square out later after stitching my design and avoid damaging the backing fabric. If you’ve drawn curvy, wavy lines which stretch fron one side of the denim front/back to the other then skip this section for now because you’ll be able to insert your scissors between your sewing without risking cutting into the backing fabric.	Cutting into the middle square I’ve cut out the middle square but only snipped into the outer square, otherwise the middle piece will fall out. This way I’ll be able to cut it out later.

Construction

This bag is quilted together as one piece. If you wish to install the lining separately then ignore the instructions concerning the lining. Construct your lining in the same way as the bag outer. The reason for constructing it as one piece is so that the colour of the lining shows in the outside facing seams - more of a colour sensation. You are of course free to choose. (I won’t sulk!)

Making the bag exterior front/back panel Make a fabric sandwich by placing the lining piece face down on your work table. Place the fusible fleece/wadding centrally on top with a even space all the way around. (The aim is that the wadding/fusible fleece will not show in the seams - they’ll be enclosed by the stitching.) Place the ‘backing fabric’ right side facing up on top of the wadding/fusible fleece. Then place the denim fabric right side facing up on top of that. Phew! four pieces of stacked fabric. You should now see your backing fabric peeping through your design (at least you will do if your design required you to cut pieces out at this point.)	Fusible fleece centrally placed on the fabric. Looking good.
Sewing your design If you’re using fusible fleece, fuse your pieces together, ensuring that everything is square and even. If you’re using a non-fusible wadding/batting then pin everything squarely together to prevent ’slippage’ whilst you sew your design. Stitch through these four layers, using your sewing machine denim needle. Follow the line of the design you’ve drawn. Complete the sewing for all of your design and for all pieces.
Prepare the bottom piece Place your ‘bottom’ lining piece right side facing down on your work table and place the fusible fleece/batting centrally on the top. Place the ‘bottom’ denim piece right side facing up on top of this. (Another sandwich.) Fuse together if appropriate, otherwise you may wish to  pin these layers together whilst you fix the bottom to the front and back pieces. Alternatively you could sew down the middle of the wadding to hold it in place.(If you’re using a matching thread this will probably be almost invisible.)	Fusible fleece placed centrally on the bottom piece. I pinned down the middle.
Attach the bottom piece Place one of the exterior (front or back) bag pieces right side down on your work table. Place the denim bottom piece, right side facing up against the bottom edge of the exterior bag piece. The linings should be facing one another. Pin the bottom piece to one exterior piece. Leave a 1.5cm open (unstitched) at the beginning and at the end of the seam to allow for sewing in the side pieces. Sew together using a 1.5cm (half an inch) seam allowance. Remember that the seams need to be facing outwards. Fix the other side of the ‘bottom’ piece to the bottom edge of the other exterior bag piece in the same way	I might have over done the pins a little!
If you lay your bag out flat it should look like this.	Exterior bag view Inside view.
Sew in the sides Make a fabric sandwich with the side pieces in just the same way as you did for the bag bottom. Fuse your pieces together if you’re using fusible fleece or pin everthing securely together down the middle of the side piece if you’re not. Place the short edge of the side piece together with the short edge of the bottom piece. Linings should be facing one another. (The photograph should help to clarify this!) Sew the bottom (short edge) to the bottom piece of your bag, leaving the 1.5cm seam allowance open at each end so that you can sew the sides up without too much stress. I’ve marked this with a pen (Removable - don’t panic.). Repeat this for both sides.	Looks a bit unlikely at the moment doesn’t it?
Attach the side pieces Take the attached side piece (now sewn to the bag ‘bottom’ piece) and pin it to the side of the bag front piece. (long side to long side.) Check that all the fabric is tucked securely into the seams and nothing has got rucked up or wrinkled. It should be fairly straightforward to fix everthing together. Remember that the seams are on the outisde and sew. Repeat for the other sides.	Nearly a bag - I quite like the look with the top turned over.
Completing the top edge Now we need to sew around the top of the bag. It looks like quite a tight fit but just remove the extension ‘table’ piece to your sewing machine and it should fit around it quite nicely. Sew approximately 5cm (2 inches) down from the top edge if you want to turn over the top as I have. If you don’t want to, then sew all the way around at least 1.5 cm (1/2 an inch) from the top edge. If you’ve made a separate lining then insert this into your bag and top stitch it into place in the same way.
More snipping! O.K. now is the point at which to do a little more snipping. Start by completing any snipping/cutting out of your design. Next snip vertically into the seam allowances being careful not to snip your stitches at approximately 0.5cm to 1cm (approximately 1/4 to 1/2 an inch) intervals all the way around your shape. Do this for every shape, front and back and for all the outward facing seams including the top edge. Don’t forget though that sometimes less is more and it’s easier to snip more fabric away later than try and add some back in!	Can you see all those little thready bits bidding for freedom!

Making the handle

Join all the pieces of 5cm (2 inches) wide denim together using a 1.3cm (1/2 inch seam) until you have a strip approximately 35 inches long.	Seams are on the right side facing out.
Place the fabric strip for the handle rightside facing down onto your work table. Place the 2.5 cm (1 inch) wide wadding/batting/fusible fleece centrally onto this. Place the denim strip you’ve created rightside facing up onto this. Make sure that sides are all neatly aligned and pin or fuse everthing into position. Machine stitch 1.5cm (1/2 inch) down one long side of your strap, and then down the otherside, again 1.5cm (1/2 inch) from the edge. It is possible because of the width the handle to sew four equally spaced ’stitched lines’. This makes a really strong and sturdy handle.Sew across the handle ends 1.5cm (1/2inch) from the edge.	Snip into the seam allowance all around the handle and at the handle ends. Same as before at 0.5 to 1cm intervals (approximately 1/4 to 1/2 and inch) and being careful not to cut into your stitches. Do this to any outward facing seams where you’ve sewn strips together to make the handle length.
Fix handles to the bag Position the handle 10 cm down on the bag ’side’ panel. (If you’re not going to turn the bag top over you may wish to attach your handle higher up the bag.) Sew both ends of your handle to your bag ‘body’. I sewed a rectangle and then sewed across the diagonal both ways. Ensure that you leave a 1.5cm (1/2 inch) at the sides and the bottom of the handle to ensure that these will fray. (For once fraying = good)	I’ve marked where I’m going to sew.
For a bit more decoration I sewed buttons over where the handle is fixed to the bag.	The bag complete with handles! You can see all the snipping.
To complete your bag Put your bag in the washing machine and wash it. Note: because denim frays you may prefer to wash it in a wash bag or pillowcase to avoid getting all those bits on other items. A cool wash will do. All the ‘agitation’ (Hopefully not yours!) causes the denim to take on that really frayed look and the lining and ‘backing fabric’ colours should show beautifully in the seams too. Wash completed. Dry your bag! If you happen to be using the tumble dryer - that helps with the fraying too. Inspect your bag. Does your design show up as well as you hoped? I found that I hadn’t cut enough fabric away from the outer square in the middle of my design so the ‘backing fabric’ didn’t show up as well as I wanted it to. So, I snipped out a little more and washed and dried it again. Love it now!	One view without the top edge folded down.(It’s stuffed full of tissue to help it stand up!) Another view with the top edge folded down.

Congratulations if you got this far and if there’s anything I’ve missed or just not explained very well, just contact me and I’ll try and ‘explain’ myself.

If you try out this ‘frayed technique’ to make a bag I’d really love to see it.